The Skin and Science Series
In this blog series, we unravel the intricate science behind it all. Our aim is to empower you with knowledge so that you can make well-informed decisions about your skincare routine. From exploring the intricate workings of various skin types to understanding the powerful ingredients that transform our complexion - each instalment of this series promises to provide you with valuable insights and practical advice
TL;DR
There is some truth to sex biases when it comes to the thickness of skin (and ethnicity bias too!). It all has to do with hormones and unsurprisingly, an age-related decline in sex hormones (both androgens and oestrogens) have a real impact on the production of collagen and thinning of skin over time. However, we can starve off these declines through topical serums, exercises, Mediterranean diets and in some cases, hormone replacement when advised by a health care professional.
Developing a thicker skin
The general scientific consensus is that men appear to have thicker skin than women.
Although both sexes experience a decline in skin thickness from around the age of 45, men seem to have 20-25% thicker skin relative to women, at any stage.
What determines skin thickness?
Skin thickness relates to collagen density, which in turn depends on how much collagen we make vs how much collagen our bodies break down – something that changes throughout our lives.
Unsurprisingly, a greater collagen density results in a tighter and firmer-appearing skin.
Think of calorie intake. If we ingest less calories than we burn, we’ll likely lose weight.
Basically, when we make less collagen than we break down, we see reduced skin thickness – particularly at the dermis layer (just beneath the surface of the skin, where most collagen lies)
Collagen is surprisingly similar to the structure of a rope and is designed to resist any pulling movement, so, the more collagen we have, the greater the resistance to stretching.
What gives strength and firmness to skin isn’t just how much collagen it has, but how that collagen is arranged.
In women, collagen is orientated in a vertical direction (top to bottom), while men have a sort of criss-cross, diagonal collagen arrangement. That type of diagonal arrangement of collagen gives great resistance to stretching from multiple directions. In simple terms, it makes men’s skin ‘tighter’.
Without this strength and elasticity – i.e., ‘tightness’, skin can start to look crepey and wrinkled more easily.
Collagen and menopause.
Collagen production declines at a constant rate in men as they age (just a little at a time, all the time), but interestingly it remains steady in females throughout most of their 20s, 30s and even 40s.
It is only after menopause in females that the production of collagen diminishes at an accelerated rate. What is the result of rapid collagen loss post menopause in females?
Accelerated ageing.
Shouldn’t that mean women look more youthful than men prior to menopause?
We need to remember that men have a biological head start with collagen production. Thicker skin and therefore increased collagen density makes for healthy collagen ‘reserves’ to cushion against the effects of slowly declining collagen levels and as a result, they appear to ‘age’ slower than females.
Testosterone and oestrogen levels also decline with age. In men and women, that rate of decline is different.
While men experience a gradual decline of testosterone with age, women undergo a rapid decline in oestrogen during menopause – in fact, they are at an all-time low. Why is this important to skin ageing?
Both of these sex hormones influence collagen production, among other skin-related areas.
Dwindling oestrogen levels are the largest contributor to dry skin and fine lines around the mouth and forehead, and also decrease the production of the elastic (responsible for a springy skin) and hyaluronic acid (skin suppleness).
In early postmenopausal women, skin elasticity can decrease by 1.5% per year. However, women given oestrogen as hormone replacement therapy, have much thicker skin elastic fibres, increased number of fibres and improvement in overall skin elasticity.
Similar to elastin, post-menopausal women who received hormone replacement therapy had nearly 50% greater skin collagen than age-matched untreated women. Other studies show that removal of ovaries was associated with considerably thinner skin, but oestrogen replacement therapy was associated with restoring skin thickness in those women.
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In similar findings, women who were at least five years post-menopause, and who had taken oral oestrogen continuously, had significantly lower average wrinkle scores than women who had never had oestrogen replacement therapy, providing further evidence of the long-term benefits of oestrogen therapy on detrimental skin changes associated with ageing.
For men, testosterone levels affect the skin much like oestrogen. While higher testosterone levels are linked to firmer and tighter appearing skin, low testosterone levels are associated with increased wrinkles. Testosterone replacement is useful in restoring skin thickness for those with low testosterone levels.
More melanin, more UV protection
Ancient (and even modern) artists show female models with lighter skin than male models – and this is no coincidence.
Numerous studies have shown women have lighter pigmentation than men.
On a pale skin scale, women of various ethnicities scored on average 2 – 3 points above male skin. This is due to men generally having more melanin (the protein responsible for skin pigment) than females.
UV exposure is one of the biggest contributors to environmental pre-mature ageing – photoaging. Melanin protects skin from the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays and having more skin melanin offers more protection from UV damage and therefore the effects of photoaging.
The pigmentation pathway and known inhibitors of melanogenesis.
It is unclear how much of a real-life advantage this may offer to men as generally men experience greater sun exposure (occupation, lifestyle etc) than women and are less likely to be sun-savvy.
But yet again, it showcases one of the key building-blocks that strengthen the widely held social belief that men age better than women.
We can intervene, despite biological differences.
Scientists have identified numerous synthetic and naturally occurring topical compounds and approaches that increase dermal thickness (i.e. retinol/retinoid and peptides) and increase collagen production (i.e. L-ascorbic acid, microneedling, fractionation etc) and when used consistently can have a meaningful impact on the youthful appearance on our skin.
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However, ageing is not isolated to the skin surface - although this is the primary way we observe ageing. A holistic approach which includes a mediterranean diet, exercise, intermittent fasting and cessation of alcohol and smoking have been shown to reverse ageing at the cellular level. Arguably this has a greater impact on our overall physical and mental health. There is little reason to not use an ‘all in’ approach to our health - aside from the aesthetic benefit.
An afternote
The reality is, as we age, so too does our skin. But as noted at the very start of this article, this is actually something to be celebrated. Every new year is a privilege!
That said, whether you fully embrace your ageing skin and see it as the picture of all your memories and experiences, or you want to slow the process as much as possible and prolong your youthful appearance, is 100% your choice – and furthermore, either choice is perfectly valid.
Taking steps to decrease the speed of ageing, starts with understanding how your skin ages, both on the surface and underneath it. In this article, we have explored the science behind the effects of dehydration, face shape, muscle changes, skin thickness and melanin levels on the appearance and ageing, and some of the ways you can hold each of those factors at bay.
Armed with this information, you can make informed decisions about skincare and what is right for you, and spread the word to others who can also benefit from the science that drives better skin health.
*Disclaimer - This article aims to deliver the most recent research and is not intended to replace medical advice from your doctor. It is best to consult your health professions if you wish to explore options that are suitable to you.
